T. Perks
57 posts
Joined: 19/11/2006 09:21:16
Location: Wotton under Edge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clutch seized??
Undo the o/s engine mounting, remove the top and bottom if fitted steady bars, jack up the engine use bit of wood between sump and jack, undo ring of bolts around the clutch cover, now remove it undo the 2 nuts that hold the thrust bearing plunger remove split pin from clutch arm and pull out arm now plunger should be easy to remove if not give it a tap with soft hammer, if its all solid then this is your problem once removed clean cover out aplly copper grease and reassemble if this is not seized then proceed to remove flywheel and clutch assy, but ive never seen or heard of a mini clutch plate seizing yet!
Posted: Jun 05, 2007 12:05 PM
Stuart
243 posts
Joined: 17/05/2005 11:14:28
Location: Frome United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Gear selection
Your clutch arm could need adjusting, depending on what year your mini is, it should just be two large adjuster bolts attatched to the clutch arm just as it leaves the flywheel cover. If you have a verto clutch ( i.e when the master cylinder is inline with the flywheel cover), undo the two bolts, and get someone to push the pedal down as far as it will go, then with the pedal down, do up the bolt nearest the flywheel cover, then raise the pedal and tighten the bolt by no more than 4 flats, then do up the securing bolt and you should be ok. Also see if the system needs bleeding, or just double-da-clutch more lol. Stu
Posted: Apr 06, 2006 09:40 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch 101
I don't think that's possible. However, I think you may have to take the clutch cover off to investigate further.
Posted: Jan 05, 2008 08:32 AM
C. Barron
332 posts
Joined: 04/05/2006 21:28:31
Location: Mid Calder United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch adjustment problems
I don't think there was a need to change the clutch. there are different types of clutch right enough, but the clutch slave cylinder is the same for both types, and everything else is part of the 'per unit' change procedure
As well as there being a plate difference another difference between the verto/pre-verto clutch is that the clutch covers are different, and as far as I remember there are different ammounts of lever throw (pre verto actuating levers are shorter), and so the cover should be changed with clutch.
Technically , there should have been no need to change the clutch at all. But if it's been changed it needs the correct cover too in order to work properly.
Posted: Jun 18, 2006 10:04 AM
engine onto mount
Engine mounts are: left hand side (as you look at the engine from the front of the car) bolted direct to the clutch cover, right hand side bolted to a bracket on the side of the engine by the pulley.
Posted: May 22, 2006 03:56 PM
Gear box rattle at idle
The noise could be coming from the transfer gears, but it could also be coming from the clutch thrust bearing. The thrust bearing is inside the clutch/flywheel housing outer cover and is the easiest to replace. To replace the transfer gears the whole alluminium end housing needs to be removed, possible to do it in the car I think, but should even a small washer drop down into the sump you will have a major problem trying to fish it out in such a restricted space. You would do better by taking the engine out for the transfer gears bearings
Posted: Jun 22, 2006 03:27 PM
ianswall
2 posts
Joined: 08/12/2005 17:29:36
Location: Brighton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clutch
on the verto clutch is there meant to be alot of movement between the plunger and the bearing. sometimes goes into gear sometimes dont. when clutch is releashed sounds like box of nails in the flywheel cover taken it off and alot of movement between plunger and bearing. clutch plate also moves should this wobble
Posted: Dec 08, 2005 06:32 PM
Se7en
3 posts
Joined: 10/10/2004 19:06:28
Location: United States
Stiff Clutch Pedal
You might take a look at where the throwout shaft goes thru the clutch cover - if its dirty and binding in there the pedal will be stiff. But as you mentioned that after it moves a bit its smooth, Id say give all the clevis pins (dont forget the one at the MC) a look for extreme wear. Replace as necessary.
Posted: Nov 22, 2004 02:39 AM
Gavin
20 posts
Joined: 16/09/2004 08:47:07
Location: Ashford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Terminal Transmission?
I did a complete engine/gearbox rebuild in April last year, and it has covered around 5000 miles since fitting. Just lately I have had trouble on corners (believe it or not!). Something in the drivetrain has been making me go in a straight line on corners, but its all very random. I could do 200 corners with no problem, and then it just kicks in and sends me in a straight line. A nightmare on a busy roundabout at rush hour! Well the problem has developed. Last night as I shuffled the car about on the drive I would lift the clutch and add the revs, but nothing would happen until the clutch was up and then it went bang and now it wont move forwards. Feels like the hand brake is on all the time. (yes, I did check this first!) I can roll it backwards and then forwards again, but it only goes so far forwards before it stops dead again. I first thought it was outer CVs with the cornering, but latest events point to my other diagnosis, a smashed diff! Any suggestions please people? Ever heard of this sort of problem? Engine Spec: 1293cc, 21253 pistons, MD266 cam, stage 3 head, 10.5:1 CR, 1.5 roller rockers, twin 1.5 SUs, lcb, K&Ns, luminiton leads, Aldon Yellow dizzy, lightened & balanced crank and flywheel, orange clutch cover, turbo clutch plate, S/C drops, Cooper S close ratio gearbox, cross-pin diff, 3.65 FD. Does 100 BHP on the rollers.
Posted: Mar 09, 2005 09:42 AM
Constant whining sound from engine!
It certainly sounds like it might be the primary gears, rather than the clutch bearing, particularly if it's only doing it when you're moving. You can, in theory, access the gears with the engine in situ. You need to remove the engine mounting on the clutch side and lift the engine slightly on that side. You can then remove the clutch cover, the flywheel and clutch assembly, etc. However, there's not a lot of clearance in there and personally I would take the whole engine out.
Posted: Jan 02, 2008 03:11 PM
Luis
Joined: 18/08/2005 18:09:11
Location: Portalegre Portugal
Chrome Parts
Hi, a few years ago there was www.minichrome.co.uk, where i bought some parts, but now i can't find it! So Where can i buy some parts in chrome like motor starter; clutch case cover, etc....Please help me with this!!!Thanks
Posted: Feb 21, 2009 08:50 PM
chrome parts
Thanks to your answer! but i already saw the WP site and i didn't find any engine parts in chrome, like clutch case cover, motor start, water pump pulley, radiator top bracket and radiator cowling one piece!please let me know if someone knows anything!
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 01:01 AM
clive
13 posts
Joined: 11/12/2006 11:24:08
Location: london United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
screeching clutch
problemo with clutch, if i release the pedal quickly i can hear a screech as the clutch engages. it is not slipping though, also it is extremely juddery on take up and i can feel a lot of vibration from the clutch side of the engine when driving along. no its not engine mounts or subframe cos they are all solid.. i had the bell house cover off there is no oil present, short of getting the clutch assy off has anybody got any ideas.. my ride is a sportpack with 32thou miles on it
Posted: Jul 02, 2007 10:14 PM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
changing a clutch
you can change a clutch the the engine in place, remove water bottles, starter solenoind ect from inside the engine bay, remove the o/s engine mount from the clutch housing and jack up the corner of the engine, and remove the flywheel cover. I think you also need to remove the top engine tie bar. then pull the flywheel. I have a peco clutch fitted to my 1400, but usually i just use a standard clutch (but i dont drive that hard usually to warrant a heavy clutch)
Posted: Jul 17, 2007 02:44 PM
Grinding & screeching noise coming from clutch / flywheel
does the engine try to stall when the clutch is depresed(or only when its happy) sorry coulnt resist that one, seriously tho if it trys to stall then it sounds like the release bearing is siezing and just rubbing not spinning on the cover, incidently you didnt say if it was a verto or std type clutch?
Posted: Mar 10, 2007 08:44 AM
jeccles2
Joined: 16/09/2004 20:18:40
Location: Haverhill United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch travel
1996 SPi Mini: I have fitted a new friction plate but when reassembled the clutch pedal only goes down half way before coming to a hard stop. I checked the travel on the slave cylinder piston by unbolting the slave cylinder and it seems fine. So something in the flywheel housing is causing the problem. I removed the flywheel cover and I noted that the thrust sleeve can only travel 4mm before it meets the flywheel boss which doesn't seem enough to me to disengage the friction plate. Does anyone know what the normal travel should be on the thrust sleeve or have any other suggestions?
Posted: May 06, 2007 12:54 PM
Upper Suspension Arm AHHHHHH!!
In theory you can get to the bolts holding the retaining plate from inside the engine bay - they're just behind and below the clutch mechanism on the flywheel cover. However, I don't think it would upset the MoT man too much if you cut a small section out of the inner wing to get at them.
Posted: May 20, 2007 04:03 PM
m. shankland
32 posts
Joined: 28/05/2007 15:53:57
Location: covetry United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
confused
the breater on the rad side goes to a spliter with the other breather then in to the carb .have tryed to fit a breather filter to the top of both breathers and got loads of smike out of the filter off the clutch housing ?make any sence .ill take the rocker cover off tommorow after work and look for the number . thanks.
Posted: May 30, 2007 11:35 PM
Fitting engine to engine stand
The ones I've seen (though never with a mini engine attached) all seem to bolt to the 'back' of the engine, i.e. with the gearbox (or in the case of a mini, the clutch cover) and flywheel removed. This then allows you to rotate the engine along an axis roughly in line with the crank.
Posted: Mar 24, 2010 07:41 AM
Alun Evans
16 posts
Joined: 07/03/2009 01:42:45
Location: llanelli United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Dynamic Crank Balancing
Hi Wondering if anyone can tell me what exactly needs to be fitted to the crank to have it dynamicly balanced, is it just the flyweel at one end and the dynamic damper at the other or do you need to fit the timing chain cog preassure plate , cluth plate and clutch cover ?
Posted: Apr 10, 2010 01:50 PM